Long Live The Plain White Tee
A $30 Tee, an intervention over pasta, and recs you won't find elsewhere
It’s hard not to overstate the importance of finding your own OTP PWT (One True Pairing: Plain White Tee). The right t-shirt has the power to take an outfit to higher heights and greater levels of coolness. I can still remember the first time I invested in a white tee instead of carrying over some 6-pack from a volleyball camp in high school. The year was 2017. Karla Walsh had collaborated with Hanes. I fought every Midwestern bone in my body screaming, “$30 for a Hanes t-shirt?” The perfectly cropped, every so subtle 90s shirt arrived in the mail, and I felt a “vibe shift.” I wore it under a leather jacket with black Levis for a show in Williamsburg. My friend told me I looked cool, sipped her double tequila soda and took a drag from a cigarette, and by God, I felt cool.
In a more domestic turn of events, new white tees were one of the first purchases I made for my now fiancé and full-time styling client, Christian. It was early days, a pandemic summer in New York, and we had to make our own fun. I took notes on his wardrobe in a tiny notebook while he made dinner. Mismatched hangers, duplicates of the same lackluster blazer, and one sweatshirt I made a note to steal. “You need new white tees,” I confessed over pasta. Our research began.
This antidote exists to prove the point that finding your OTP PWT is as specific as falling in love. I prefer something cropped with a tight neck and roomy sleeves. Christian is looking for something he can wash every week and still pair with white leather sneakers for a nighttime look, plus enough length to tuck in.
Let’s start with the basics: material. Do you like a little stretch in your PWT? The simplest trick is to think about the denim you wear on a frequent basis. If you’re like me and stick to Levi’s and Wranglers, chances are, you’d like a 100% cotton t-shirt. If you’re looking for something with coverage, try a spandex blend. If you like that vintage, worn-in vibe, then perhaps a linen blend is for you.
Then it’s all about fit. Imagine the outfits that would feature a PWT. I’ll go first, since this is my newsletter, and say that I’m looking for a length that’s borderline cropped for pairing with mini skirts and 501s. If you’re a true fan, you’ll have a few tees, one for every possible bottom option, but start with the silhouette you’re most prone to wear.
And then get shopping! The process is painful, but once you’ve found the one, it’s easy to order a fresh version every two-ish years. I’ve had the same Karla x Hanes tee for five years. Like any cornerstone of your wardrobe, once you find what works for you, stick to it. Put on blinders when flashy DTC brands offer 20% for some fake holiday like National Pet Day. Creating a classic, curated wardrobe is a practice in maintaining focus.
Archived Outfit
Goldie Hawn! Come on! What I adore about this outfit is that it couldn’t be more straightforward. A white tee and a black blazer—boring? Wrong. A white tee and a black blazer is the answer to the question of “What should I wear?” 80% of the time. Meeting a new friend for a coffee? Hosting a Zoom breakout room? Dropping by a movie premiere you were invited to last minute? It says, “I’m here and I’m polished, but I have better plans afterward.”
Honorable Mentions
I wrote a piece full of white t-shirt recs, but one of the shirts I recommended is $790, so let’s ignore that. Here are my top picks when it comes to PWTs and their personalities. Not to brag, but I did test some fan favs from other brands. I feel pretty good about this lineup. Respond to their newsletter if you’re between brands, and we’ll figure out your true match.
The Organic Cotton Box-Cut Tee from Everlane ($24): You’re a low risk, medium to low reward type of girl. You’re looking for something that washes well for an approachable price. You listened in HAIM in undergrad. Now you take long walks in Prospect Park. Assuming you drink iced coffee year round?
Nin Tee by Calder Blake ($98): No way, we both live in Brooklyn? It’s still so sad Bird closed, right? No, I didn’t make it to the No. 6 Sample Sale this year. My child, Ocean was at a birthday party on Governor’s Island. We missed the ferry and took a Blade.
The Crew Tee Karla x Hanes ($24): You’d rather watch 20 minutes of TikTok than a full Alison Roman cooking video. You carry crossword puzzles as props. You hate the way your hair air dries and avoid dairy unless its ricotta. On toast. With flaky salt.
Kirkland Signature Men’s Crew Neck Tee, 6-pack ($19.99): Midwest born and bred, you’re addicted to the rush of getting a deal. 6-packs just *feel* better to you. You love a Sunday nap and you google promo codes for every online purchase. Saturday afternoon plans? Seeing a matinee strictly on the principle of lower prices. WARNING: This shirt must be shortened unless you’re a man who loves a robust tuck. Hi, Christian!
Recycled Cotton Vintage Tee by For Days ($32): You carry a Baggu like a security blanket, and take laps at the farmer’s market for produce you might actually use. Secret vices include: Poshmark, Ghia mocktails, and baseball hats without sports team logos.
Bonus round! Wash your OTP PWT with this Laundress soap for lasting whiteness. Thank me later.
Thank you so much for reading. This week, I wrote about my true career crush, Marta Mae and Carhartt pants. See you next Thursday! x
Perfection.